Welcome to the Kingdom of WONDER!

I find it so appropriate that Cambodia refers to itself as "The Kingdom of Wonder," as I am left in complete and utter AWE at least once a day here.

Words cannot begin to do justice in recounting my experiences in the past 36 hours and if I was to even attempt, it would fill a novel of epic proportions. However, I will start by trying to describe just the journey alone in getting to the village yesterday...

Tigor and I began by hailing a tuk tuk to the "bus terminal" in order to then find a taxi to take us from Phnom Penh to the village in Kampong Speu. Before you start envisioning a yellow cab like the ones you see buzzing around US cities, replace that image with a rusty, dilapidated van that you wouldn't trust to go more than five miles without losing a tire or having the door fall off. Now multiply that vehicle by about 40, all pointing in different directions, but packed so tightly you have to hold your breath as you shimmy between them---there's the so called bus terminal for you.

(I'm hesitant to even include pictures because they far from capture the scene, but perhaps it will provide just a glimpse)

The drivers weren't quite sure what to make of me, but as soon as they saw us, they swarmed over to accost Tigor on where we were going and to try to persuade us on why we should take their "taxi." Tigor made an offer and we piled in, joining six others in the van. Even with the windows open, it was stifling hot and I was reluctant to inhale out of fear of lung poisoning from dozens of idling vans seeping exhaust. Despite being assured that we were going to leave right away, we ended up sitting there for at least a half hour while the driver dashed around desperately trying to recruit even more passengers. When he finally was satisfied with 15 (mind you, back home this van would legally hold no more than 10. But this is Cambodia---no rules!) we began the process of maneuvering OUT of the parking lot. Basically this consisted of a lot of horn honking and impatient yelling as at 6-7 drivers frantically raced back to move their perpendicular/parallel/diagonally parked taxis.

And then we were off! I wish I could say it was all smooth sailing from there, but the driver seemed to get a thrill from weaving between traffic at top speed and incessantly laying on his horn. Just as I started to get accustomed to this style of travel and began to contemplate sleeping, we came to a screeching halt and the driver jumped out to beckon in another passenger. Lo and behold, over the course of the hour trek, this scene was repeated multiple times: driver slams on the brakes, pries open the half corroded door, shoves everyone farther back, and squeezes in the new arrivals. By the time we reached our destination, we had a total of TWENTY-FIVE people (including a fully robed monk who received VIP treatment by being ushered to the front seat...to join the four others already sitting there). All I could do was hold my belongings tight to my chest while trying to take up as little room as possible and LAUGH.

(I felt awkward taking pictures inside the van itself, but snuck one on the way out. Note the monk in front)

Foreigners seldom take this mode of transportation and so I received more than a few strange looks. At least I provided some amusement for the other passengers as they kept smiling and asking Tigor about what I was doing as we were obviously together. Though he is Indonesian, he can pass for Khmer a whole lot better than a gigantic, pasty white girl with green eyes and dirty blond hair, decked out in jeans, Keens, a backpack, and a Nalgene...

(And we took a "taxi" back today, but this one had more furniture than it did passengers...)

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Tomorrow we're embarking on another adventure, but I'm bracing myself for whatever may come. We're making a SIX hour jaunt to Siem Reap to see the legendary ancient temples at Angkor Wat. Considering I can't even stand short CAR rides in the US without going stir-crazy or becoming ill, I'm not looking forward to the drive (which I believe is by bus, yet at this point I use the term loosely). But I am excited for the destination! I just wish I had brought along some Dramamine...